FFR Manual

[BigLeo69]

i spelt it wrong for a purpose, i think they left out the 'A ' in their explAining. the mnual as i will call it tends to be more on the donor side of the build. FFR should spend a little more time
into the parts spec, like pics of the parts before each section especially in the suspension side of it the most important part, the 3 link is explained at the end and i can't tell in the rear-end section if they are talking about a 4 link or a 3 link. but i guess when it all arrives in front of me things will be clearer. another ? would be the silicone for applying the alum. panels i believe that some silicone oxidizes paint and alum. any suggestions like seam-sealer
instead or just a high dollar rtv silicone? hope the complete kit makes more sense when its in my shop and the parts are all there that i paid for.:eek:

[TOM KEISER]

The FFR manual has not been updated for a long time, most will refer you to the ffcobra.com forum where just about everything you can think of can be found in terms of a straightforward build through all of the various modifications that folks have come up with along the way. Sub assemblies / options like the 3-link come packaged with separate instructions. It will make a lot more sense when you are looking at the parts. You have quite a bit of experience and points of reference at your disposal here as needed. Any GE silicone II (most use clear) will do for bonding the aluminum panels during final riveting. I have not seen any evidence of oxidation on mine after 7 seasons on the road.

[STL Mark]

Leo - we've got several members that have completed FFR cars and are in every aspect quite beautiful. Some have attended build school. All are smart - and I would ask them to contribute to this thread now. (Thanks Tom) Also, not trying to be pushy or a salesman, but in the paid member section of the website you can follow their builds and research most of your questions. Tapping into the knowledge base of our builder/members is a huge benefit of a membership. I'm very proud and brag quite often about our members. We have engineers of all types, Architects, aerospace workers, Doctors, software designers, and Lawyers - bottom line - these guys are smart - real smart. Sales stuff over - just doing my job.

Cheers!

[STL Mark]

I corrected the Thread Title for spelling - so that it shows up when using the search function of the site.

[BigLeo69]

I corrected the Thread Title for spelling - so that it shows up when using the search function of the site.

thnks! oops forgot the "A" the nuns always gave me pts. off for spelling. :D Leo

[BigLeo69]

The FFR manual has not been updated for a long time, most will refer you to the ffcobra.com forum where just about everything you can think of can be found in terms of a straightforward build through all of the various modifications that folks have come up with along the way. Sub assemblies / options like the 3-link come packaged with separate instructions. It will make a lot more sense when you are looking at the parts. You have quite a bit of experience and points of reference at your disposal here as needed. Any GE silicone II (most use clear) will do for bonding the aluminum panels during final riveting. I have not seen any evidence of oxidation on mine after 7 seasons on the road.

i go there often to research my build, hopefully when i get started the questions will cease
and of course i am very mechanically inclined. and smart too:rolleyes: when i want to be,but don't tell my wife:D

[TOM KEISER]

i go there often to research my build, hopefully when i get started the questions will cease
and of course i am very mechanically inclined. and smart too:rolleyes: when i want to be,but don't tell my wife:D

I hope the questions never cease, that's one of the things that helps to keep it fun around here. I can't wait for an answer when a tough one comes up and always look forward to learning something new.

[STL-Scott]

Leo,

If you want to see a FFR complete Kit in progress, you are welcome to come by any weekend. I'm knee deep in electrical right now, and I'd say over 2/3 done with assembly.

The manual is one of the better ones out there, but it covers the basics and was not updated for the non-donor complete kit build. Too many variables to cover.

I also gave you more info with my reply on the F5 forum,

Like Mark said, there are some good builders sections in the members area. Myself included.
Scott

[BigLeo69]

I hope the questions never cease, that's one of the things that helps to keep it fun around here. I can't wait for an answer when a tough one comes up and always look forward to learning something new.

i learn something new everyday, i have been lucky to have a big family and a close one too.
but there is always my big little brother steve the ace mechanic in my family and a wiz,we call him McGiver his clients call him dr. drott he is in heavy equipment and one of the few in the country that can find or make parts for absolete cranes and equipment mostly Case.
but back to the subject for you and Scott is the wiring harness set-up for the efi in the kit the same for the carb set-up we just eliminate or not use wires not needed. and i will take you up on that look at your build Scott "curious on the path of less resistance" when it comes to location, location that has a lot to do with the ease of the project and me i am lucky to have that photographic memory. thanks gentleman ;) Leo

[STL-Scott]

Leo,

This is a double post to my last response on the Ron Francis wiring on your other post on ffc.

The Ron Francis harness is good. It is built for this car. It has some extra circuits and wires in the feed to the engine bay. There is a separate wire feed or a carb'd car with an electric choke and coil, and also EFI feeds. Use what you need, pull the fuse and don't use the wire for the feed you don't need.

I'm running a late model Modular engine and have a separate stand alone engine wiring harness (it's realy cool) and this ties into the Ron Francis harness with (1) One Wire!

You will still need to intergrate the guage wiring into the engine/chassis harness. You get to pick your gauges with the complete kit. I went with the speedhut vintage smyths style electronic gauges. The other choice is the white autometer (more modern), they are also electronic.