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  1. #11

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    Hi Tbull, I live around 270 / Page. Distance to an engine shop is not an issue, I can haul the block just about anywhere. Reputation and quality work are much more important than distance and I will definitely be shouting out for the cherry picker and engine stand when the time comes. Thanks.

    As to Morley, I checked out their website, they are definitely worth a visit. Probably going to visit AMT and another shop up in Bethalto as well. Other suggestions welcome as well.
    Casey

  2. #12
    Member #007 Kerry & Kathy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caskel View Post
    Hi Tbull, I live around 270 / Page. Distance to an engine shop is not an issue, I can haul the block just about anywhere. Reputation and quality work are much more important than distance and I will definitely be shouting out for the cherry picker and engine stand when the time comes. Thanks.

    As to Morley, I checked out their website, they are definitely worth a visit. Probably going to visit AMT and another shop up in Bethalto as well. Other suggestions welcome as well.
    Casey
    Casey,

    Be aware that not many engine shop are skilled in machining Ford Modular engines.They require many specialized tools and are much more critical on cam bore tolerances and oil passages. Don't let a shop try to tell you differently. These are not as forgiving as a pushrod Ford.

    Call Bob Monks at STL Mustangs for a referral to a competent shop.
    He does no machine work but sends his work to those who are well versed in building modulars.
    Be advised.....The best modular builders are not local. Those that have tried... have horror stores to tell.
    You might be best served to buy a longblock from an out of state reputable builder.

    Also...if you need any new or used parts for your Cobra Engine...I have a number of 97-98 Cobra 4.6 spares that I won't be using since switching to a Coyote engine. New Gasket sets...oil pans...valves, new heads, ARP hardware, Pistons, Rings, etc.
    I had intended to sell everything but have not gotten to do it yet.

    Kerry

  3. #13

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    Thanks for the info Kerry. Yep, a reman unit could definitely save time and effort. The part I didn't mention is that several months back, I came across an Aluminum block 4.6 at a junkyard for cheap. This is the engine I'd like to get rebuilt. I think I found my guy, but still checking around. Also thanks for all the other parts offers. Seems like quite a few of you members have parts bins that need scrounging through.

    As to DELIVERY DAY!!! Spoke with Stewart Trans earlier this week. I am tentatively scheduled for delivery sometime between Thurs-Sat so... "Happy Valentines Honey!"

    I suppose my next move on this forum is to start a build thread and figure out how to post pictures! Stay tuned.

    Casey

  4. #14
    Member #007 Kerry & Kathy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caskel View Post
    Thanks for the info Kerry. Yep, a reman unit could definitely save time and effort. The part I didn't mention is that several months back, I came across an Aluminum block 4.6 at a junkyard for cheap. This is the engine I'd like to get rebuilt. I think I found my guy, but still checking around. Also thanks for all the other parts offers. Seems like quite a few of you members have parts bins that need scrounging through.

    As to DELIVERY DAY!!! Spoke with Stewart Trans earlier this week. I am tentatively scheduled for delivery sometime between Thurs-Sat so... "Happy Valentines Honey!"

    I suppose my next move on this forum is to start a build thread and figure out how to post pictures! Stay tuned.

    Casey
    Casey...the most desirable aluminum 4.6 DOHC blocks were made in Italy by Teksid. The same foundry that makes Ferrari engine blocks. They were found in Lincoln Mark 8 cars beginning in 1993 through 1998. Be certain that is what you have. Because there were also 4.6 aluminum blocks made for the FWD Continental which have a totally different bellhousing pattern and are worthless for your RWD purpose. The other Aluminum RWD blocks were made by Ford at the Windsor Plant and are marked "WAP". They have those letters cast into the side of the block. They were found in mid 2000 Mustangs and can be used...but the block hardware is not interchangeable and they are not considered to be as strong as the Teksid block. The Teksid is capable of 2000 hp with minimal modifications.

    You would be well served to use the block you have as a core in exchange for a built long block. Also...if you have a choice...use the "C" Heads found on 1999 and newer Mustangs and Continentals. They are a far superior head for the street and can use more desirable Mach 1 or Cobra R intake manifolds. The earlier "B" heads have dual ports that required IMC valves to operate and were both more complex and had port sizes too large for good street performance and driveability. The early B heads are notorious for carbon build up in the secondary intake ports due to zero to low port velocity during normal street driving. The more desirable later "C" heads will fit any of the 4.6 Aluminum blocks. Be aware also that the Continental FWD blocks came with the desirable "C" heads...so even if you run across a Continental 4.6 DOHC the heads and cams are still usable even though the block is not. The Continental C head Intake is usable but not desirable unless mated with an automatic transmission.

    If you need "C" heads or intakes...I have both...including a new set of C heads.
    I also have two complete Continental engines with C heads if needed....with lots of small parts.

    As far as crankshafts...the 96-98 Mustang Cobra cranks and later 2003-2004 Mustang Mach 1 manual trans cranks were forged steel and have an eight bolt flywheel pattern. The Mark 8 cranks and Mach 1 Automatic cranks were nodular Iron and have a six bolt flywheel pattern. Either...is perfectly adequate for the street. Just be aware that for a manual transmission...most 4.6 manual flywheels will require an eight bolt crank flange.

    Finally...do not let a builder talk you into a set of aftermarket cams for the 4.6 DOHC. They are totally unnecessary for any naturally aspirated street engine.
    The best cam combination is to use the OEM intake cams from a 93-98 Mark 8 or 96-98 Mustang Cobra and the stock exhaust cams found on the C head engines from 99 to 2004. However the stock 93-98 exhaust cams will also work well.
    There is much information available on this cam setup and the proper degree settings for best street performance and I would share any of the info with you that I have accumulated over the last 20 years.
    Keep in mind that Ford used these same stock factory cams to go 182 MPH with a 3700 lb full bodied Mark 8 Lincoln and stock 4.6 DOHC engine. They are plenty potent enough for a 2300 lb street Cobra.

  5. #15

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    Thanks again for the info Kerry. I did do some research before I bought some random junkyard engine hoping it would fit. Fiat block, check. RWD Lincoln Mark VIII, check. I don't plan on using FoMoCo heads or cams, but thanks for the offer.

    I am not aware of any engine builder that is offering short / long block aluminum 4.6's, but I can call around some more.

    Casey
    'It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.' attributed to Aristotle
    I'm more Libertarian than liberal, but I'd prefer not to be 'set on fire' either way.

  6. #16
    Member #007 Kerry & Kathy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caskel View Post
    Thanks again for the info Kerry. I did do some research before I bought some random junkyard engine hoping it would fit. Fiat block, check. RWD Lincoln Mark VIII, check. I don't plan on using FoMoCo heads or cams, but thanks for the offer.

    I am not aware of any engine builder that is offering short / long block aluminum 4.6's, but I can call around some more.

    Casey
    What heads and cams are you planning to use?

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